Sunday, 30 June 2013

DAY 82 - 30TH JUNE 2013 - NORSEMAN TO BALLADONIA



Day 82 – 30th June 2013  - Norseman to Balladonia

Cycling Stats: 190 kms
Cycling Average: 30 kms per hour

Very Cold morning this morning and it must have been so because this was one of the few occasions Walter decided on the full fingered bike gloves.

Today was a bit of a milestone really as we were starting our quest east and a long long way east it was going to be too. When I arrived at the Eyre Highway turn-off the sign said 1,986 kms  to Adelaide. That is some distance. Now today’s ride was a little different than what Walter had anticipated and apparently a lot of people have preconceived ideas about this stretch of road.

Walter’s primary source for information about his trip comes from a book by Paul Elwood called ‘Around Australia By Bicycle ‘The Complete Guide’ and the author describes this section of road as follows:

‘ The W A section of the Nullarbor has some fairly hilly and forested sections (rather than the flat and treeless plains as may be expected). Between Norseman and Balladonia the route negotiates numerous small climbs through well forested country.’

Yes and when we discussed this at the end of today’s ride Walter was indeed a little surprised at the number of climbs. Luckily the winds were more of the tail variety for the second half of today’s ride so he still managed a good average.

Thank you to the Balladonia Roadhouse for giving us a free powered site tonight.


Its a long long road east for us
Part of the long road east I drove along today


2 Over sized trucks approaching - a vehicle in front advises you to get off the road while they pass


As they come closer I notice that 2 trucks are needed to tow this huge load




A truck stacked with swimming pools going west 





Still more climbs for Walter today

Some local Nullarbor folklore



Saturday, 29 June 2013

DAY 81 - 29TH JUNE 2013 - ESPERANCE TO NORSEMAN


Day 81 – 29th  June 2013  -  Esperance to Norseman

We both slept well – it was not a bitterly cold night and Walter told me he feels much better today and is ready to get on that bike and pedal those 200 kms to Norseman. What a relief and what a difference a day makes !!!

Cycling Stats: 203kms
Cycling Average: 27 kms per hour

He set off after a big bowl of warm museli and a banana and I packed up and I mentioned that I was keen for a half hour walk along the foreshore and Walter was happy for me to meet him at around the 60 – 70 km mark.  There is nothing nicer than being on the beach early morning in winter – crisp clear air and the lovely blue waters of Esperance.

Then it was time to say goodbye to Esperance – I would love to come back here one day. This town has a really good feeling about it and there is, I am sure so much more to see. That is the thing with this trip – we see so much but we always have to move on to the next place & sometimes more quickly than we would like to.

I caught Walter at around the 47 km mark which was I must admit,  was sooner than I had expected.  He told me that there was a bit of a head wind so no chance of the 30 + averages he was used to.  He was also taking things a bit slower & easier to help his recovery. He asked me to drive another 20 kms down the road and then coffee time.

The landscape is still green grain fields and some salt lakes and once we past Salmon Gums, a little place where we stopped for our lunch break the landscape changed as we entered The Great Western Woodlands which amazed us – is the largest untouched temperate woodland in the world – it has numerous unique species of eucalypts and plants and covers an area astoundingly the size of England (see photo of information sign below).

Walter tells me that all in all it was a pleasant ride – not as cold and the headwind lessened as the day wore on. But it was a huge day – 7 hours in the saddle as he arrived here in Norseman at 3.30pm.

Thank you to the very friendly managers Neil & Cassandra at Gateway Caravan Park at Norseman who gave us a lovely site and looked after us so well.

Tomorrow is the beginning of a huge new section of our journey – where we enter the famous Eyre Highway – the highway that will take us all the way across the Nullarbor to Ceduna (South Australia)  (1,195 kms)

This information about this area amazed us

Looking a lot happier today

Noorseman - the iron camel sculptures  as you enter Norseman

DAY 80 - 28TH JUNE 2013 - ESPERANCE REST DAY


Day 80 – 28th  June 2013  -  Esperance – rest day

So pleased that we can have a quiet day – Walter is struggling – his legs are very sore and so understandably he is not in good spirits at all.  He has cycled 4 big days in pretty awful weather and in not the most favourable of winds. Add to this the fact that he is still coughing after the flu he picked up whilst on the break in Perth and this is indeed a much needed rest day for him.

After organizing the laundry we detached the tent ‘room’, lock the bike inside it and decide to head off to do some sight seeing. Walter was keen on a visit to McDonalds for breakfast so we popped in there before heading off to drive the famous and very scenic 40 km Great Ocean Drive which is a loop that starts in the town and follows the Southern Ocean coastline.

“This 40km drive embraces Esperance’s spectacular shores, sending you on an enchanting journey of tranquil bays, soaring cliffs and giant granite boulders strewn across the landscape” Samille Michell, Journalist The Western Australian Travel 2007,  I read from the brochure. Yes this sounds great Walter can rest during the drive and enjoy tranquil bays as we drive this lovely coast line stretch. Yes well said as it is all just as wonderful as the journalist describes. One of the beaches we stopped at Twilight Beach was voted the best Australian Beach of 2006 – it was stunning.

We stopped at many of the bays & beaches and enjoyed gazing out over the aqua blue Southern Ocean and seeing the incredibly white sandy beaches and high sheer steep green cliffs which hugged the coast in many places. We saw a pod of dolphins at Observatory Point and the protected waters of Ten Mile Beach Lagoon which we thought would be a great place to swim on a warmer day than today.

Then back via Pink Lake (‘Not Pink by the way’ )according to the brochure and a stop at Section Glass Gallery where we had a big chat to Annaka the young lady who told us that all the glass items we could see in the studio were all made on site using various sheets of glass and various firing methods to achieve the beautiful jewelry / plates and assorted items – well worth a visit.

In town we had a quick bite to eat and then another drive this time to the east about 65kms to visit Cape Le Grand National Park – we saw picturesque Lucky Bay (voted The Whitest Beach), Hellfire Bay and Thistle Cove.  This really was a very untouched and pristine national park and the clear blue aqua waters combined with the squeaky white white sand was well worth the drive from Esperance.

I dropped Walter back at the camping ground so he could relax and rest for a few hours whilst I did a huge shop in preparation for our upcoming 1200 km journey across the Nullabor. Walter felt like Chinese for dinner so we drove into town in the evening for an early dinner – a very early night and hopefully Walter will be in a bit better spirits tomorrow.
Observatory Bay

A view along this wonderful ocean drive

South W A is amazing

Lucky Bay - Le Grand National Park

This I thought was interesting and beautiful

Thistle Bay

DAY 79 - 27TH JUNE 2013 - RAVENSTHORPE TO ESPERANCE


Day 79 – 27th  June 2013  -  Ravensthorpe to Esperance

Cycling Stats:  195 kms
Cycling Average Speed:  31 kms per hour

A good start – no fog & not as cold. I popped into the friendly IGA store as soon as it opened – Walter needs Nurafen – the camp ground gremlins have been at work and his last tube can’t be found !! I also had to buy a new mat – the one I bought in Busselton has also vanished – where – I have no idea.

Unfortunately Walter now has very sore leg muscles and on leaving Ravensthorpe I felt a bit taken aback as it was very hilly terrain with many climbs so my heart went out for Walter. I caught up with him so he could apply some of the Nurofen.

The landscape is still predominately wheat fields and there are some mine sites – nickel we found out later.

Today was all about offering words of encouragement and hoping that things would improve after the rest day in Esperance tomorrow.

I arrived in Esperance (population of 14,500) so a decent sized town – this is the last largish town until we reach Ceduna in South Australia in around 6 days so here we must stock up on lots of supplies.

We found a lovely camping area about 1.5 kms from town but with a lovely water view. We put up the new tent ‘room’ and enjoyed a bit of a quiet late afternoon. Early to bed.

Lovely colours of the canola fields

Where I stopped - trees and colours amazing !!


Riding through this fertile country


Strange - the things you see on the way

They are interesting - I stopped - they panicked and ran ever so fast - the noise was incredible - the baaing within the herd was so loud - this is a photo taken by the zoom after they settled 

Hugh hills

DAY 78 - 26TH JUNE 2013 - WAVE ROCK (HYDEN) TO RAVENSTHORPE


Day 78 – 26th  June 2013  -  Wave Rock (Hyden) to Ravensthorpe

Cycling Stats:  200 kms
Cycling Average Speed:  28.5 kms per hour

Very cold morning – so glad we bought the little heater – even Walter remarked it was cold – so it must have been !!! The caravan park was blanketed in thick fog. Walter left at 7.20 and after the normal packing up & making coffee I left around 8am. The fog hadn’t lifted and was so thick that you couldn’t make out any of the landscape. As I drove up and down some hills (in & out of foggy stretches) patches of landscape became visible and I saw vast expanses of green wheat crops and later huge canola (such a cheery bright yellow colour) fields as well. Luckily the fog began to clear just after 9am.

Walter told me later that this was probably the coldest morning yet – his fingers were numb for the first tow hours until the fog disappeared.

Saw some quite quirky signs ‘Welcome to Lake Grace – Wave Zone’ then another ‘ People will wave’ and then another ‘Wave Safely’.

Stopped to wait for Walter at a tiny place called Varley and dropped into the Varley Store and had a chat with Sheena who was very interested in our charity ride and she asked if she could donate – I said that would be great and that I would just go the van to get one of our bookmarks for her. We have these with us to give to people we meet to spread the word about our website and allow anyone who wishes to make a donation online to do so as the link is on our website.

When I returned I was so surprised when she handed me $100 – such support for our fundraising sometimes makes us very emotional and feel very humble. Thank you Sheena.

I waited for Walter on the side of the road and we had our coffee break and as I packed up to leave 2 young power-line workers came up to the van to speak to me – they had seen Walter 80kms back and wanted to know what we were doing. I had a great chat – Walter has been suffering from sore muscles over the past few days. Recovering from the flu and not riding for 2 weeks means he is a little less fit than he was before the break. I told Michael & DJ this and their advice – very good advice - was that he should find a dam this afternoon and let the cold water do the trick (just like the footballers who have ice baths Michael said). They also handed me a donation and apologized that they didn’t have any more cash on them – meeting these lovely genuine people whilst on the road makes this trip very special.

We arrived in Ravensthorpe ad Walter was keen to have steak so I popped into the local IGA to pick up some groceries. Whilst I was at the checkout Walter arrived and I waved to him. The check-out lady asked about what we were doing and told me that the owner’s wife is suffering from dementia and promptly handed me a $50 note for our donations bucket. Walter had had a rough day and had asked me to pick up some red wine to go with our steak tonight. So I popped into the local Cellars store and once again got talking about our fundraising campaign & ride – the guy told me his sister has dementia and I said I had just spoken to the lady in IGA and he told me yes the owner’s wife was his sister and he also handed me a $50 note – Alzheimer’s is very common and many people (the statistics say 1 in 5 have a family member or friend / someone who works in facilities who care for dementia sufferers.)

Anyway I wanted to share these stories as we are humbled by the support and generosity of people we are meeting and we are saddened by the impact of this disease on people’s lives – the general comment from everyone is that it is indeed a very cruel disease.

We also want to share with you (for those who aren’t aware) that we are dedicating this trip to our dear friend Evert Sarels Van Rijn who passed away as a result of Alzheimers in January this year. Evert was the best man at our wedding and when we heard about his death we decided to make this trip a tribute to him and raise awareness and funds for research to help find a cure for this debilitating disease. Andrea (his wife) came out from The Netherlands as she wanted to be part of this trip – fantastic to have her with us from Broome to Perth. We had time to think & talk & share memories of the times we spent together with her & Evert and to hear about the last years of Evert’s life. Andrea has now returned to The Netherlands but remains in our thoughts as we continue on this epic trip.

Please pass on this message of our fundraising campaign for Alzheimer’s Research and remember – it doesn’t matter where you live – Australia, The Netherlands,  Iceland, Norway, US in fact anywhere please go to our website www.bettenonbike.com.au and go to the link ‘Sponsors / Fundraising where you can find the link to our bettononbikegofundraise page and you can donate via a credit card.


A huge hill !!


The green expanses

A down hill
And then an a big up hill

Afternoon view from our camping ground site
Our new outdoor 'room'
This is Evert (our good fried) & why Walter rides !!













Wednesday, 26 June 2013

DAY 77 - 25TH JUNE 2013 - CORRIGIN TO WAVE ROCK (HYDEN)


Day 77 – 25th  June 2013  -  Corrigin to Wave Rock (Hyden)

Cycling Stats: 110 kms
Cycling Average Speed:  30 kms per hour

Walter left at 7.30 for what was to be a relatively short ride.  He left under cloudy skies as there had been more early morning rain this morning. The skies cleared but it was quite chilly all the same.

I waited for IGA to open as what was our 2nd coffee plunger had broken (the rubber / filter part just broke in half) so now on to number 3. Luckily IGA had one, only a  0.6 litre one, mind you, but I worked out I can make the coffee really strong & then add boiling water to the thermos so all good.

Walter seemed to be having a better day today. We both enjoyed the green grain fields again today – it is such fertile land and very peaceful to pass through such a lush green landscape.

Coffee stop at Kondinin and then onto Hyden. I had a look at the historical sculptures focusing on the life of the early settlers which were really interesting. Then only another 6kms or so to The Wave Rock Caravan Park. Laundry to be done first and then a decision to go on the walk to Wave Rock and The Hyden Wall & Dam sooner rather than later as there were dark clouds looming. Wave Rock is rather spectacular even though it is one of those very well known and visited tourist places.

We decided to do the Hyden Wall walk and then the skies opened and we were well and truly rained on. We made a dash to one of the covered information shelters whilst the storm passed. Walter had had enough but I wanted to do The Hippos Yawn circuit walk as I was once again keen to do a big walk and I enjoyed the walk over and around the rock formations which were an integral part of this terrain.

Cold rainy afternoon so I think an early dinner and hopefully the weather will clear for tomorrow as another long ride is planned.
The curve !!

On top of Hydens Wall
Before the storm

The colours are brilliant !!

On top of Haydens Wall

Hippos Yawn

On the Hippos Yawn Circuit Wak

Love this - the sun on the wet rained on rock faces


DAY 76 - 24TH JUNE 2013 - ARMADALE (SOUTH PERTH) TO CORRIGIN


Day 76 – 24th  June 2013  -  Armadale to Corrigin

Weird wild wet weather in W A & 2 flat tyres on the first day back on the bike !!

Cycling Stats: 180 kms
Cycling Average Speed:  28kms per hour

So the first day cycling after 2 weeks off – lots of rain last night and heavily overcast this morning. Walter began what was to be quite a long ride today at 7.30am. The mornings are now much darker and colder and so the plan is to get up at 6.30am (which is for me a far more civilized time).

So the beginning was very heavy skies and a very rain soaked road – after an hour the skies cleared but only for a short time. Leaving Armadale we travelled through a very picturesque valley with green tall hills on both sides and lots of signs for galleries & craft shops & cafes. When I spoke to Walter about this later he said he hadn’t noticed because it was hill after hill after hill and climb after climb after climb – pretty tough going. The landscape changed to heavy forested national park and very thick dense fog for the next 40 kms or so.  Walter told me this stretch was very gloomy and chilly.

Then as I was waiting for him for our 2nd stop it pelted down with rain – some very heavy showers. The skies suddenly cleared and Walter was keen to push on and when we reached Brookton the weather was fine. 110kms done but still another 90 or so to go. The landscape changed to open green grain fields stretching far in all directions. This is apparently the biggest grain belt in Australia. We also saw thousands of merino sheep, many farms and large gums. The wind picked up and at our next arranged stop I waited for some time and luckily there was phone reception and Walter told me he had had a flat tyre. Later when we were close to Corrigin he called me that he had had another flat tyre so a pretty eventful day on the bike today. I picked him up as we were close to Corrigin and the tyre had to be replaced because he showed me the slit in it.  Corrigin Caravan Park was unattended and later when the operator arrived he saw our van and the fact that we were raising money for Alzheimer’s Research and very generously allowed us to stay for free. It was a cold night so the nearby camp kitchen was a great place to go and cook dinner and Walter got to watch the news as there was a small TV in the kitchen.

Whilst waiting for Walter I spied this colourful character

When the fog cleared this was typical of today's landscape

Cold thick fog not too pleasant for the first part of the ride

Cold & hard to get back into the rhythm after 2 weeks off


Monday, 24 June 2013

DAY 63 TO DAY 75 - 11TH - 23RD JUNE 2013 - PERTH & SOUTHERN W A


Day 63 to Day 75 – 11th – 23rd  June 2013  -  Perth & Southern W A

This period was planned as an interlude – a time to relax, holiday, and celebrate our wedding anniversaries (a long standing tradition of around 30 years) with good friends Denis & Karen and this year in The Margaret River region. Firstly though, the very strong pull for me to go home and spend some time with our sons Samuel & Sebastian in Brisbane, as well I needed to check on business affairs. Firstly going home was wonderful – I had had grave concerns from the very start about being away from home for over 4 months so this trip home had been booked and factored into our itinerary – so therapeutic for me, I have to be honest – going home, having breakfast with the boys, cooking in my own kitchen for them & their girlfriends – fantastic – it was truly wonderful to be home !!!!

Walter & Andrea enjoyed a few great days in Perth, Freemantle and a day trip to Rottness Island whilst I was in Brisbane. On my return we drove to Bunbury so that Andrea could stay in the trusty campervan for the four days of our much anticipated 4 day break with Denis & Karen to celebrate our respective wedding anniversaries to uphold our tradition of celebrating this milestone together for the past 30 years or so.  It was unfortunate however that a nasty strain of flu had brought down Karen & so we spent the first day quietly to give her a chance to recover. Also unlucky that Walter picked it up a few days later and spent the last afternoon & night of our trip together trying to recover.

However we did enjoy a quiet time together – visiting wineries, eating great food and staying in a few amazing properties. Our anniversary lunch at Voyagers Winery was a highlight an extremely memorable occasion – superb food, amazing wine and great company. (and everyone was well that day !!)

Then it was time to drive back to Bunbury and meet up with Andrea – bid a tearful goodbye to Denis & Karen (on my part). We made a hasty decision to head to Busselton which was a great decision as this meant the fulfillment of a long term traveling goal for me – to walk the length of the world famous 1.8 km Busselton Jetty. The weather was glorious – sunny but brisk !! We decided to also do the observatory tour -viewing the ocean life 8 metres under the jetty. I enjoyed this immensely – There are only 2 of this type of facility in Australia (one in Airlie Beach and this one) There are only 2 in the world where the fish are not fed and so one can observe the underwater life completely in its natural state & habitat and that is this one and one in New Zealand. As a person who is not the most confident swimmer this provides a fantastic opportunity to view the underwater world in all its natural splendor in the comfort of viewing windows located on various depths so each level provides a different view / window of ocean life.

Then it was time to head south and explore a very different part of W.A. Firstly to Pemberton heading towards Denmark to visit The Gloucester Tree (a 65 metre tree which has steel pipe treads which you can climb and it was originally used as a fire look out tower). Then onwards to Beedelup National Park to see the Beedelup Falls and the famous Walk Through tree which is a huge Red Tingle tree which is over 400 years old.

We had done some research and we were keen to see a lot of the tall forests – the Kari trees, Tingle trees, Marri and Jarrah. So we headed to the famous Valley of The Giants to experience the Tree Walk – walking on a series of very bouncy steel suspension walkways and walking through the canopies of these amazing Kari trees which are the tallest in the world. Wow !! Then a slow walk through the ‘Ancient Empires Walk’ where we saw huge Tingle trees some with a circumference of around 60 metres and with large hollowed out trunks.

We arrived in Denmark with no accommodation booked and in the main street saw a sign ‘accommodation’ – what a find – this was a quirky cute and historical building originally built in 1943 now a B & B called ‘Thirty One on The Terrace’ – Rob was a fantastic host who showed us a few of the available rooms and apologized profusely that the largest wasn’t available. We chose a retro room – with flouro green painted wardrobes & curtains. We were told it was haunted but we weren’t too worried !! Breakfast in the dining room was a social affair and Rob came to check if we had slept well which we had – great beds. The continental breakfast was really good – yogurt, fruit, fruit juice, cereals, a selection of breads & crumpets and filter coffee you could prepare yourself.

Then a short drive to the Visitors Centre where we met Lenore who had taken our booking for the 2 hour Denmark Tour the evening before. She was happy to look at our proposed route to return to Perth and promised to check on accommodation for us on the way whilst we went on the 2 + hours Eco Tour of Sensational Denmark & Surrounds.

Dr Dave of Out Of Sight Eco Tours does a great informative tour of Denmark. And surrounds including Greens Pool and Elephant Rocks. We knew we didn’t have much time and we wanted to make sure we saw as much as we could of this area so we had decided to take this tour and yes it was fantastic – Dave took us to all the key places and we had heaps of time to experience the beauty and raw nature of this part of southern W.A. The photos speak for themselves.

Then it was time to start to head back towards Perth via Mt Barker – We had a tasty curried beef pie at Plant CafĂ© in Mt Barker before heading to Porongurup National Park to tackle the 2.2km Castle Rock Granite Skywalk. This was a tough upward walk and we enjoyed the view from the steel skywalk but unfortunately the tunnel / ladder which was to be accessed over rocks via steel hand holes was a bit beyond Andrea & I  – really only suitable for very advanced climbers. We were disappointed that we couldn’t complete the final section of this walk.

Then a 100kms + drive to Kojonup and a quick stop for groceries and then on to a farm stay B & B which had been organized for us by the Denmark Visitors Centre. It was a home away from home as we had the use of a large living room / dining room with a burning log fireplace and the bedroom was very comfortable.

In Busselton we had decided that a few extra items were required before heading onto the next stage of our journey to address the rapidly changing climatic conditions we are now facing. So we popped into BCF and meet a very friendly young sales assistant Stephen. He showed us a 3 sided tent structure which we could fix onto the sliding door section of our campervan hence creating a protected ‘room’ outside for cooking and eating our evening and morning meals.
We decided to erect it immediately upon our return to our camping grounds and it looked like it would work a treat except for the suction cap devices which didn’t adhere at all to the van. Walter was keen to do an hours ride and said he would drop in to BCF to see what could be done. Stephen organized 2 new very robust suction caps from Bunnings for Walter to pick up on his return from his ride. That evening I noticed Stephen had also made a donation to our fundraising for Alzheimers Research . Thank you very much Stephen for all your support – we really appreciate it. It is people like you who motivate us and inspire us to keep going.

This break also gave Walter an opportunity to have his bike serviced – this had been pre-booked at Wembley Cycles – Walter says thank you for a great job in servicing his bike – it is now ready to tackle the next 5000 kms or so.
Finally it was back to Perth and we welcomed the opportunity to catch up with Stephen & Pauline a couple we had met at Cania Gorge last September during Stage 1 of our trip.  We had a wonderful lunch and a great chat at Cottersloe Hotel and then it was time to say goodbye to Andrea who will fly back home tomorrow to The Netherlands. It was a quick but teary farewell – we had enjoyed her cheerful company and assistance as support crew immensely.

Then to a camp ground to the south of Perth in the vicinity of Armadale conveniently located close to the start of the Brookton Highway where we head off in the morning (unfortunately this was in the pouring rain)  - fingers crossed that the weather will improve for our first day back on the road tomorrow.
Bell Tower Perth

Maratime Museum Fremantle

View from Rottness Island

Thank you Wembley Bikes 

I built it last night !!!! (Balancing Rock)

Happy Anniversary Denis & Karen

Fremantle Fishing Harbour

Kings Park Perth

Pitchfork Winery

Wine Tasting - Voyagers
n
Anniversary Lunch at Voyagers

Voyagers surprise desert

Busselton - view under The Jetty

Busselton Jetty at sunset - Wow

Beedelup Falls

Porongurup National Park walk

Gloucester Tree

A nearby visitor to the Gloucestor Tree

Enjoying The Valley Of The Giants Tree Walk

Part of the amazing structure of The Valley of The Giants Tree Walk

We can only say Wow about this view near Elephants Rock Denmark

Also in Southern W A near Elephants Rock Denmark

Near Wilsons Bay, Denmark

Cape Lunch

Voyagers Winery - a beautiful place to visit