Days 26 & 27 - 4
& 5th May 2013 – Katherine & surrounds – rest days
Last night I craved
barramundi so very fortuitous that a café called ‘The Barra Café’ opened its
doors that night for the very first night of trading. It was adjacent to the caravan
park that we were staying at for the night. Yum the barra we had was super
fresh and moist and very very tasty.
Also nice was another
sleep in & then time to pack up & into Katherine for groceries, fuel
& a coffee. Walter came up with a very practical idea to contact Dianna (my
niece who was joining us for the Katherine to Broome stage) & ask if she
could arrange to get off the bus at The Edith Falls turnoff. (about 43 km north
of Katherine) Yesterday afternoon whilst enjoying a dip in the thermal springs
close to the caravan park we had got talking to a lovely couple for quite a
while who told us that they had just come from Edith Falls & that it was
most definitely worth a visit - so
often, this is how it goes when you are travelling & luckily our plans
weren’t- fixed so we thought - why not !
We met Di at the Edith
Falls turn-off and proceeded along the road where lo & behold we saw a
serious cyclist, alone yet fully equipped with panniers (large bike bags). Of course
we slowed down and asked if he wanted some cold water as, by this time it was
around midday & the temperature was well into the mid to high thirties. He
said he was fine and said he would meet us at the falls. Surprisingly Ludo was
also from The Netherlands and we learnt that he had cycled up from Perth (a 3
month trip – with lots of side trips & sightseeing on the way). His bike
was interesting as he didn’t have a bike chain but a band / belt instead so no
greasing or maintenance associated with a chain.. Walter & Ludo who was a
very friendly guy from Rotterdam had a great old chat and even shared a joke as
they compared their bike tans on their legs.
Poor Di – after
leaving cold temperatures in Canberra with no time to adjust to the very hot
conditions in N T we invited her to join us in a steep very hot walk – The
North Leilyn Track to the top pool. She did however agree, on arriving at the
top that the hot steep walk was well worth it for what awaited us at the top
was breathtaking – waterfalls with the most incredible sheer rock faces /
cliffs with oranges, reds, browns in dramatic formation and the cool cool deep
crystal clear water was so refreshing. We stayed enjoying swimming there for
quite some time then it was time to head back down & have some lunch and
another quick swim at the large pool where all the layers of waterfalls fed
down into another huge pool at the bottom.
Then to Katherine
Gorge (63 km to Katherine & another 30km to The Gorge) where we were
camping for the night. This was of course a beautiful bush setting complete
with a huge resort style swimming pool. There was a huge colony of bats who
were very noisy but took flight at dark and then started to return and begin
their crying and calling out just after four am.
Next morning we walked
via the information centre in the park down to the jetty of the Katherine River
as we were doing a four hour / 3 gorge boat trip which was the only way we
could view the gorges because the canoe trip we had wanted to do wasn’t being
offered due to it being dry season & crocs had been sighted in the river.
So as this was the only way, we decided to do this tour. Glad we did because it
was indeed a very informative trip. The Aboriginal tour guide shared a wealth
of knowledge about the history and significance of the area to the aborigines
interspersed with some great entertaining and comical comments.
We travelled up the
first gorge and then walked around 700 mtrs to board the next boat to travel up
the very famous Katherine Gorge – just as awe inspiring as all the photos /
film footage I had seen over the years. Very tall vertical rock cliifs
stretching high above us in all hues – dense vegetation and sandy little banks
– rocky outcrops / huge boulders all in the most magnificent red / orange / black
/ grey / white colourings.
After Katherine George
we walked another short distance to board the third boat to take us to our
final gorge where we disembarked and walked the rocky trail to Lily Pad pool
and falls (a very tall cliff face with a very tall waterfall. We enjoyed the
walk behind and through the gushing water as it tumbled down to hit the rocky
platform below before splashing noisily into the huge cold pool below. Another
magic part of N T and a memory we will keep precious forever.
After our return
through the various gorges on the 3 boats we visited the information centre for
a coffee and a quick look at the displays which were in the process of being
updated.
Lunch, a swim in the
amazing resort pool at the Gorge camping ground and it was time to set off back
to Katherine for the night as Walter was to start the next days ride from
Katherine at the crack of dawn tomorrow morning.
We decided to stay at
the Boab Caravan Park as we weren’t keen on staying at Riverview the one up the
road – it was big and crowded and
everyone was packed in so close – all concrete and paving.
We were very
pleasantly surprised at the welcome from the owner who on hearing about our
fundraising trip said we could stay for free. AND later turned up with a four
pack of cold Gatorade drinks and a container with some delicious fresh frozen
mango which we enjoyed as desert. This caravan park is small, only 40 sites but
has the most beautiful shady lush green lawns and the amenities were amongst
the cleanest and most well appointed that we had stayed at - so highly
recommended.
Thank you for your
kindness and hospitality.
I should mention that
a number of wonderful caravan park managers have indeed been very generous in
giving us free stays when we mentioned to them on our arrival about Walter’s
cycling and our charity fundraising trip for Alzheimer’s Australia Dementia
Research Foundation.
These being The Bottle
Tree Motel and Caravan Park at Blackwater, Pentland Caravan Park, Clermont
Caravan Park, Belyando Crossing Roadhouse (there had been some negative
comments on the internet about this place – all totally unjustified as we found
the owners very friendly and the amenities very clean and included all the
things to make a stay comfortable – soap dispensers, paper towels, bath mats
etc), Richmond Caravan Park where
we were only asked to pay a $10 donation to help re-stock the fish in the
lagoon and The 3 Ways Roadhouse – we would like to warmly thank all these
caravan park operators for their generosity and support.
Edith Falls - Top Pool |
The cycling Dutchmen |
Who has the best bike tan ? |
A colourful local species |
These are not locals but did wish they could be for a little longer..... |
Enjoying the view at Top Pool - Edith Falls |
Katherine Gorge - an incredible sight |
The views up the gorges were breathtaking |
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