DAY 49 - 28TH MAY 2013 - KARIJINI ECO RESORT - REST / TOURS DAY

Day 49 - 28^th May 2013  - Karijini Eco Resort – rest day

Walking up to the view through the large open but screened window of the tent and seeing the huge sky and large gum trees was rather special. A continental breakfast is included in our accommodation so we set off to the resort dining room. Cereals, yogurt & fruits, juices, toast and self serve plunger coffee was all very welcome.

We had ordered a picnic lunch which was ready for us to collect. I decided to forego the planned drive to Weino Gorge today. I just wasn’t keen on driving on that corrugated road again today – maybe also I just crave a day of not driving as I have spent so much time in the trusty campervan over the last 7 weeks or so. Laundry had to be done too – by hand washing as there aren’t any machines and I was content at the thought of not rushing and of doing the small walk to Joffre’s Gorge this morning and catching up on the writing of our blog. So Walter & Andrea left and I am enjoying sitting here on the deck of our tent and listening to the bird song and waving to the staff as they cycle by on their commuter bicycles to the reception and back and around the resort tracks whilst going about their various tasks. These tents are beautifully dotted around the resort and not much has been disturbed in their placement so you feel as if you are sitting in the middle of the bush and there is also a beautiful filtered view towards the mountain range which is half in shadow. Beautiful white gums called Snappy Gums, termite nests and wild flowers and spinifex grass clumps and the ever present red red earth complete the view and it is so very peaceful.

Its rather overcast – there was a 50% chance of rain but as we remarked this morning that means there is a 50% chance it won’t rain too. They have had heavy falls here over the past week or so according to Kenny, the English guy who works at reception who we spoke to yesterday. He said he has only been here a few weeks and hasn’t been able to get out to see any of the other gorges (except for Joffre’s which is located here) in Karijini National Park as on each of his days off it was pouring rain.

I enjoyed the walk to Joffre’s Gorge Look-out – it’s another very tall deep orange rock gorge with views down to green pools at the bottom. White gums cling precariously to the rocks on some of the sheer rock faces. I began the Gorge walk from the top down to the Joffre Falls and continued for a while.  It was steep and doable but as I proceeded down the rockiness, the difficulty of the walk changed to a Class 5 according to the signage so, as I am on my own, it didn’t seem wise to continue so I walked back to our tent for an early lunch and to catch up on our blogs.

Walter & Andrea returned and they had enjoyed Weino Gorge and the photos looked spectacular !! Walter had completed all the walks & particularly enjoyed the walk (a Class 5) down through the bottom of the gorge. They were back by midday.

A nice lazy afternoon reading and enjoying the tranquility of this place. Walter & Andrea are keen to do the walk to Joffre’s Look-out and maybe to the falls and I will go and see it again as it certainly is worth a repeat visit. 

Dinner at the restaurant tonight – so a very pleasant rest day. 

Weano Gorge

Weano Gorge 

Weano Gorge

Amazing hues of Weano Gorge

Late afternoon walk to Joffre's Look-out not far from our glamour tent

The view into Joffre Gorge

Please don't jump Walter....

Small waterfalls into one of the pools feeding down into the gorge

DAY 48 - 27TH MAY 2013 - AUSKI ROADHOUSE TO KARIJINI ECO RESORT

Day 48- 27^th May 2013  - Auski Roadhouse to Karijini Eco Resort

After a wonderful hot buffet breakfast and some specially ordered poached eggs which were cooked to perfection by the chef we set off on today’s journey. Thank you Sandy and the friendly Auski Roadhouse staff for your hospitality – we really enjoyed our stay.

We had placed the donation bucket on our table and a worker at an adjacent table walked over and placed a $50 note – he said his dad had suffered from Alzheimer’s Disease and another worker also popped over with a $20 donation – we are surprised and very thrilled about the generosity of the people we meet.  About a week ago I had deposited $400 into our bettenonbike gofundraise account, which is the 2^nd lot of donations collected to date whilst we have been on the road. So far we have received around $1,200 in donations whilst on the road.

Cycling Stats: 85 km

Cycling Average: 28 km per hour

The first section of the road was stunning – the highway was truly an engineering feat as cuts had been made through the mountains & hills to create this highway. We had time so we decided to visit a look-out around 20kms from Auski Roadhouse and there we learnt that this road had been completed in 1978 and much planning had occurred by the team of engineers (all in conjunction with the local aboriginal community as many sacred sites are located in this region)  in plotting where and how this road would be constructed. The view from the look-out certainly was amazing as far below we could see where we had just driven and how the road snakes its way through the passes of this mountainous region.

We took the Highway heading towards Tom Price and then Andrea & I drove the 10kms to the visitor centre as we wanted to find out which of the 2 access roads we should take to get to The Karijini Eco Resort as we had been forewarned that the roads were both very corrugated and whether we should veer around and do 20 kms extra on a sealed road to reduce the dirt road section. Walter was keen to do an open air mine tour at Tom Price in a couple of days and wanted us to check on this. We also picked up brochures on all the walks. The Karajini National Park is very spread out so we decided to visit Dales Gorge and do the walks as it was only 10 kms from the visitor’s centre before proceeding to our booked accommodation at Karijini Eco Resort. So we walked to Fortesque Falls and it was spectacular – Walter & I had a swim in the very chilly water and then did the short walk to Fern Pool – there were heaps of black fish there and if you sit with your feet in the water they come and nibble (a natural pedicure). There was also a colony of bats in the trees above us which was obvious from the noise when we arrived as well as the yellow droppings that fell on my leg as I sat with my feet in the water. Walter was keen to walk the bottom of The Gorge and Andrea & I decided to do the rim walk. We saw Walter far below during some sections of the walk. Points of interest were The Three Gorge Look-out and The Circular Pool Look-out – both great vantage points to view Dale Gorge in all its beauty.

After making some lunch and a welcome coffee it was about 2pm by this time so we headed towards The Resort. The first 5kms after turning into the access road were newly sealed but after that the road became very corrugated and very gravelly and stony in sections so we were forced to travel at a very slow pace. I am not looking forward to having to do this all over again the day after tomorrow when we leave.

The deluxe tents were great – complete with an outdoor ensuite. Many ecological principles are in place in this resort – no glass is allowed, no washing machines to limit the amount of water consumption, solar hot water and power.  All guests must take all their rubbish with them.

We decided to have a casual dinner at the restaurant tonight – burgers were on the menu which we thought sounded good and they were ! An important milestone was reached – Walter has now cycled exactly half way Around Australia so a celebratory drink was in order – Cheers !  Proost !! Skaal !!

 

Karijini Eco Resort - camping in style

Open air ensuite

Great Northern Highway - this part is an engineering feat

View from The Look-out and memorial to the engineering team

Dales Gorge - Karijini National Park

Fortesque Falls pool 

Fern Pool - Karijini National Park

Walter (bottom right) setting out to walk the bottom of Dales Gorge 

View from rim walk to bottom of Dales Gorge

Fortesque Falls

saw many of these little lizards during our Dales Gorge Rim walk

Three Gorges Look-out

View down to Circular Pools

DAY 47 - 26TH MAY 2013 - INDEE STATION TO AUSKI ROADHOUSE

Day 47- 26^th  May 2013  - Indee Station to Auski Roadhouse

We were up at 5am as we needed to drive the 9km over the dirt road to the main highway so that Walter could commence his ride from there. The early mornings are quite cold now. We decided to drive around 30kms and then have breakfast & make the coffee.

Noticeable today were the large numbers of dead cattle by the road side. This is the main transport route between north and south Western Australia and the numbers of road trains and oversize transport trucks is huge. They travel 24 hours and so unfortunately as there is no fencing many cattle become road victims. There is petrol to be shipped, cattle trains (although not as many on this road), buildings (demountable buildings we have seen by the dozens being shipped to the north), iron ore and other mining products, a road train towing 4 large carriages all packed with large white bags (fertilizer maybe ?)

We stopped briefly to chat with a young German girl who is cycling around Australia. We had been told about  her by the Indee Station people. She has a bicycle and is towing a small trailer. Apparently she has been on the road for close to a year and started her journey in Perth and has been all the way around and is on her way back to Perth. She was sitting on the side of the road repairing a puncture but said she was fine. Walter also stopped to chat to her and offered assistance but she told him she was OK too.

Cycling Stats: 195

Cycling Average: 27 km per hour

This was indeed one of the more difficult cycling days as there was a constant strong head wind which only became lighter in the last 40kms or so.

When we arrived we told the staff at Auski Roadhouse about our fundraising trip and the manager asked if we would be eating at the restaurant in the roadhouse – I replied that Walter was still on the road and I would ask him when he arrived. He proceeded to write over the back of our fundraising bookmark and handed it back to me. On it was a note signed by himself that the three of us could dine for free at the Roadhouse tonight and as well have our breakfast there in the morning. How very generous and we could stay free on a powered site.

We had once before eaten a meal at a roadhouse (the very wet night at Willare before we reached Broome) and the food there had been hearty but a bit bland. To our astonishment this roadhouse employs a fully qualified chef. This is no doubt because this is the only place for many many miles where the mining people can come for a meal and so the standard here is very high. We decided to go with the special – which was a roast dinner buffet – hot meats and vegetables and a variety of cold salad dishes all beautifully presented and very fresh and tasty. Wonderful !!!

Coffee break somewhere quiet.....

Auski Roadhouse 

The German around Australia cyclist and her kit

DAY 46 - 25TH MAY 2013 - PORT HEDLAND SOUTH TO INDEE STATION

Day 46- 25^th  May 2013  - Port Hedland South to Indee Station

Aaah a nice sleep-in this morning as today is a short journey. It was time to update our blog as we had had very limited internet so that kept me busy for a few hours. Then off to Port Hedland (as we stayed in South Port Hedland last night) for a look at the port where we saw a huge freighter coming in and a visit to a local café for a coffee.

On the drive from Port Hedland South we passed the huge white salt mine piles and countless numbers of road trains heading to and from this busy port. A quick stroll over the harbour and a visit to the information centre as Walter was keen to find out about Indee Station where we would be staying the night and the road ahead for the next couple of days.

Afterwards we drove Walter to South Port Hedland so that he could begin today’s short ride.

Cycling Stats: 52 kms

Cycling Average: 31.2  km per hour

The industrial nature of this road meant that we saw road train after road train after road train and we also passed a iron ore mining site where mining was taking place and huge water sprayer trucks were spraying the red dusty mining site roads.

We had a quick lunch stop then the final 20kms to the Indee Station turn-off where we would wait for Walter. At the gate we met a woman who asked if we were Ok. She was on her way to the station where she had worked for the past year and she told us that there was still water over the off road track down to the cattle station because heavy rain had fallen. Apparently 2 days ago it would have been impossible for us to get to the station. She said we would be fine. The road was indeed covered in water in many sections but it was only around ankle deep. The corrugated sections were once again present so a very slow 9 kms to the station – so that makes at least 3 dirt access tracks to our nights’ lodgings in the last four accommodation stops. This is indicative of the isolation and remoteness of this area of the Pilbara that we are currently travelling through.

We had a great chat with the 3 ladies we met when we arrived at the station. The property runs 3,000 cattle which apparently isn’t enough to make a living. Six years ago they had been badly affected by a cyclone that roared through. They said that everything had been blown away but at their age they didn’t want to start all over again.

We were offered tea & home made biscuits and sat around one of the long timber tables. We were shown to the camping area and we could choose a site. We briefly met two young Irish girls who are here working on the station.

We were invited to come to happy hour at 5.30pm to 6.30pm. BYO drinks, and nibbles are provided so yes we thought it would be fun to meet the locals. So  just before we did this Walter & I walked up to Indee Hill and the view over the new mining camp was interesting. We meet Florence a French back packer half way up – she said yes there is telephone coverage up here but not in the mining camp we could see below us. She said the sunsets were magnificent from up here but today was a bit cloudy but I think she enjoyed this quiet place away from the camp with its views over the landscape. She told us that she is assistant cook for up to 50 miners who live in the camp. This is a newly set up camp which was established 6 months. Ago. From our elevated position we could see all the white demountables and mining workers’ utes parked there. We walked a bit further up Indee Hill to capture the wonderful sunset (the clouds cleared for a moment or so) and then down to the station for drinks and it was wonderful to chat with Col and Betty, the station owners. We learnt that at least 3 severe cyclones had devastated the region over the last 10 years. One of the long term residents Sid had tragically died in a cyclone around 7 years ago. He was in a donga and had tried to get to the station during the cyclone and a building had fallen on him. We had seen the remains of the ruined dongas from Indee Hill earlier on our walk.  Sid had a huge collection of bottles which his relatives said they would throw away but Col, the station owner unwrapped all the boxes containing this life long collection and has them displayed in two large cabinets in the large living room of the station. There were also 2 Irish girls currently working on the station. I spoke to one of them and she said she had been working as a tutor for a 7 year old boy at a neighbouring station for the past four months and was here at Indee for 2 weeks to help build mustering pens for the cattle. I had watched earlier as they went in to feed the geese and there was heaps of laughter as the geese chased them. These girls told me that they love Australia and especially the outback. We really enjoyed our overnight stay at Indee and the warm hospitality of Col and Betty. They had given us free accommodation and a generous donation was added to our collection bucket.

waiting for the freighter

The beautiful awning of the Port Hedland Information Centre

The first of a number of creek crossings on the way to Indee Station

The loo with holding down weights (our campervan behind the tree)

Our campsite at Indee Station

The mining camp near Indee Station

Sunset from near the top of Indee Hill

Walking down Indee Hill 

Happy hour at The Station

DAY 45 - 24TH MAY 2013 - EIGHTY MILE BEACH TO PORT HEDLAND SOUTH

Day 45 - - 24th May - Eighty Mile Beach to Port Hedland South

Cycling Stats:  250 kms
Cycling Average:  32 kms per hour

Up at 5am and quickly packed up as once again Andrea & I will need to get Walter to The Great Northern Highway to start his ride today. The caravan park is around 10km on one of those dusty corrugated track roads which the trusty camper van is starting to get used to now. There is a bit of an art to driving these corrugated roads - the speed is a fine balance and eyes must be very alert as to the changes and position of the corrugations - everything must be secure as well !

We reached the turnoff and Walter was on his way. The winds today were very favourable - nice  tailwind for most of the way. As we neared Port Hedland the number of huge 'road trains', 'oversized' trucks, and 'wide load' in their signage, increased significantly. This is due to this being the inland mining truck route for iron ore, coal and salt. As we reached the outskirts we saw huge piles of white salt in the distance and the outline on the horizon of the huge international port of Port Hedland which is the biggest export port in Australia.

The huge number and size of the mining road trains was a little scary and I must admit I was, for the first time on this trip a little anxious for Walter cycling on the side of the road with so many monster vehicles passing him from both sides.

Luckily all good.

The scenery was today a real desert landscape - low shrubs in various hues, some rocky outcrops and more termite nests - even a community of 'miners nests' as we approached the very industrial Port Hedland.

The Black Rock Tourist Park was a very welcome destination - a lovely swimming pool to cool off in and luckily we arrived at around 2.30pm so we could also do some laundry - Walter's bike gear was in need of a machine wash. Thank you for your friendly hospitality and the free camping.

Early morning on the road

Saw a tower and stopped up close - Yes a good internet connection at last !!

A bird's eye view over the desert landscape

A termite mining community on the outskirts of Port Hedland

Coffee in the desert !!!

Crossing The Pardoo River

You find Specialized everywhere even out here on this remote highway !! 

A distant flock caught with the zoom lens

DAY 44 - 23RD MAY 2013 - ECO BEACH RESORT TO EIGHTY MILE BEACH

Day 44 - 23rd May - Eco Beach Resort to Eighty Mile Beach

Up at 5am - packed up and left early as the start of Walter's ride is from the turn-off to the resort which is around 11kms drive over the red corrugated dirt track back to The Great Northern Highway.

Today's ride is through a remote area called The Great Sandy Desert - the renown unpredictable strong gusty winds could prove a challenge as the wind direction can be all over the place in this part of Western Australia.

Cycling Stats: 245 ams
Cycling Average: 30.5 kms per hour

YES the winds this day lived up to their reputation as there were very strong West Coast cross winds making the day's cycling very challenging but for the last 60kms they settled into a great assisting tailwind.

This was a long day in the saddle as we arrived at Eighty Mile Caravan Park at around 3.30pm.

The landscape was same same same - low scrubby vegetation & grasslands - but huge skies amazing and very vast panaromic views to the horizon.

After setting up camp we went down to check out this huge wide beach which was covered in large expanses of millions of shells - 99% of them white in all shades and sizes of white and very crunchy underfoot. We were glad to be wearing sandals.

Iconic Sandfire Roadhouse 

Huge goanna scurried off the road on our way to Eighty Mile Beach Caravan Park

Eighty Mile Beach at low tide

DAY 43 - 22ND MAY 2013 - ECO BEACH RESORT - REST DAY

Day 43- 22^nd May 2013  - Eco Beach Resort - rest day

Walter was keen to try out the fishing so left around 6.30am to walk to the point. Andrea & I had a leisurely breakfast and decided to do the self guided bushwalk (we had picked up a brochure the day before) and so we headed off and found the track and saw all the various numbered trees / bushes all marked in English / Aboriginal and botanical names. The Sandpaper Fig (the sandpaper like leaves were used to finish off tools and the ripe figs were good to eat, the mother-in-law tree where the leaves are positioned back to back, (the sign said that according to Aboriginal tradition mother-in law and son-in-laws must not directly face each other (interesting…), the fruit from the Gubing tree is reportedly the richest source of Vitamin C in the world (one fruit is equal to 50 oranges)– we zigzagged through the bush until the path began to climb to The Mini Bungle Bungle Look-out and when we reached the top that was exactly what we saw – the beehive shapes in brilliant orange and red hues but in smaller scale sitting as part of the coastline. These rocks are culturally significant to the Yawuru people. We then chose to climb to another look-out called The William Dampier Look-out where we saw that William Dampier had sailed past here in circa 1688 and he was the only explorer who had circumnavigated the world three times and that he would have looked towards this part of the W A coastline and seen the point where we were standing. It seemed to me that because of the remoteness of this area not much would have changed at all since he had sailed past in his sailing vessel all those centuries ago.

We decided to return via the beach which meant a walk through the Mini Bungle Bungles where we could see close up the various strata of the red rock formations and on one section we passed between some of the rock formations and had to just about hold our breath to get through as it was so very narrow.

The last section was along the wide, open sandy beach. This beach return walk is to a certain extent, tide dependent as this part of W A has the 3^rd highest tide in the world so we had been warned to check on the day’s tides as you can in fact get cut off if you are unaware of the tide changes.

Another walk to The Caves can only be done at low tide so on our return we checked to see when it would be  low tide today and this is at 1pm so this is the recommended time for this walk. 

However we decided instead to laze by the beautiful pool and then enjoy  some delicious wraps on our filtered sunny deck. The next few days will be huge days with long cycle days planned.

Andrea on top of the world at The William Dampier Look-out

Bay beach

As we walked down to Mini Bungle Bungles

Amazing red and orange hues

Walking through The Mini Bungle Bungles

And more relaxing at this wonderful resort ...