DAY 17 - 7 MARCH 2015 - HAMILTON TO HOBART

Day 17 – 7 March 2015 – Hamilton to Hobart

Cycling Stats:  87 kms

Average Speed: 30kms per hour (until reaching the outskirts of Hobart)

Last day of riding for Walter & Steve and the starting time was 8.15am and today is a relatively short ride.

The terrain for today’s ride is pleasant – gentle undulating farming landscape – it is very dry here and this is evident in the yellowy grasslands.

Later the ride follows pretty bays until reaching the outskirts of Hobart.

Gill & I opted for a leisurely start – The Platypus Walk which starts at the back of the camping ground and follows the creek until it reaches a small weir. Gill said she loved this walk as it reminded her of walks back in England. As you walk you pass through a series of gates walking across various private farming properties. We startled some rams who probably didn’t expect any visitors.

Near the weir we stopped to pick and eat some blackberries picking the ripe sweet berries from the large wild bush growing there. They are everywhere in Tasmania – if you forget to take some snacks for your walk its OK because chances are you will find a blackberry bush.

Afterwards we stopped at the iconic Jackson Emporium, a lovely old stone cottage complete with flowering cottage garden alfresco area. Coffee and cake was welcome and delicious and Sooty was able to join us which she enjoyed.

Then it was time to go and we had an enjoyable drive into Hobart – staying at Hobart Cabin & Caravan Park about 9kms from the city.

Mid afternoon and we drove into Hobart for a walk around the Salamanca and waterfront area – always a hive of activity and we notice the new floating dock which houses lots of tourist outlets such as the ferry terminals for MONA and Peppermint Bay. There were also some lovely up-market Tasmanian craft & local produce outlets.

An early dinner at Fish Frenzy and Walter enjoyed his fish chowder so much that he ordered a second one. The fish was lovely as were the wonderful views over the harbour. A perfect ending to our 17 day Cycling / Touring around Australia experience. Thanks Steve & Gill – we enjoyed your company immensely and hope that maybe sometime in the future we can share another such adventure.

This one didn't run just watched curiously

Lovely wild ripe blackberries grow everywhere in Tasmania

View through my windscreen - lovely undulating landscape

Where it started & where it finished Hobart

A celebratory drink at Salamanca

The new dock building

Historic Salamanca

Lady Nelson - our view from Fish Frenzy

DAY 16 - 6 MARCH 2015 - DERWENT BRIDGE TO HAMILTON

Day 16 – 6 March 2015 – Derwent Bridge to Hamilton

Cycling Stats:  103 kms

Average Speed: 27 kms per hour

After an extremely gusty windy night the guys prepared themselves for the icy cold rainy ride which they knew was how the ride would start today.

They began the ride at 8am hoping for a bit of warmer weather therefore  a slight later start.

Steve was keen as he had had a rest day yesterday.

This was a less mountainous ride than yesterday with only 2 major climbs and with lots of descents. The temperature was 5 degrees when they left but after some big descents the temperatures rose to around 12 degrees fairly quickly. But on the top at the start it was extremely windy and gusty and with some rain Walter told me later.

Gill & I went to the dining room of the Derwent Hotel for the continental breakfast. Afterwards as I went to settle our hotel bill I remarked to the manager / owner, a jovial grey haired grey bearded gentleman that the continental breakfast provided brought back memories of breakfasts I have had in Paris in a small hotel by The Sorbonne. He laughed and said that’s where we got the idea from. Eggs, which you boil yourself with an egg timer provided, single serves of yoghurt and some fruit, toast and spreads, coffee and juices. He told me that years ago when he was there the Euro wasn’t very favourable and so he had boiled 6 eggs and placed 4 in his pockets to eat later in the day. I didn’t feel guilty at all because I had taken an apple for Walter.

After the boys arrived Walter said he was keen to take the drive to Strathgorden/ Lake Pedder. Yes why not but we were a bit taken aback that this trip was around 130km out and 130km back – a huge drive. Walter was keen however so put the foot down and 1hour 45 minutes later we arrived at Lake Pedder / Strathgorden Information Centre. The information provided was very interesting – the lives of the workers who constructed the Gordon Dam – so isolated but a very strong community spirit developed. The Gordon Dam is an engineering feat and is the biggest reservoir in the whole of Australia. The fine semi-circular design is different to the normal design of a dam – quite amazing for us to be able to descend the hundreds of steel mesh steps to the narrow high dam wall and walk over the top of it – the views were quite stunning. You could see that the water level was lower – the dead white stark trees were visible in the clear blue waters.

Then time to drive back, check in quickly and down to dinner as the manager said she would like us to order by 7pm. The Hamilton Inn where Walter & I were staying was a heritage building – built in 1826 by William Roadknight, a pardoned convict who became the town’s constable, mill owner and postmaster.

The friendly but slightly quirky manager cooked us a lovely dinner. Tomorrow is Walter & Steve's last ride - this will be into Hobart.

Riding out from Derwent Bridge Hotel

Keen to ride

Cold icy winds and showers, around 5 degrees 

The amazing sight of The Gordon Dam

Walking the dam wall

View down to the river below the Gordon Dam

Amazing views - trees exposed by low water line

Interesting detail about the dam's design

Wild country along the road back from The Gordon Dam

Quirky interior of the heritage 1826 Hamilton Inn where Walter & I stayed the night

DAY 15 - 5TH MARCH 2015 - STRAHAN TO DERWENT BRIDGE

Day 15 – 5^th March 2015 Strahan to Derwent Bridge

Cycling Stats: 128kms

Cycling Speed: 23.5

Extremely gusty cold winds and heavy showers overnight so today’s ride did not bode well.

Walter was however determined as this was one ride in the trip that really fascinated and appealed to him. Gill was a bit concerned as she had had numerous people advise that this was a very tricky road to pull a caravan up.

The outcome – Walter would ride solo and he was sure that once he left the coast the winds would not prevail and be as strong. So I waved him off at 7.15 in the cold wet morning but he was happy to be riding again after a 2 day break.

He tells me that he climbed to a height of 820mtrs above sea level and climbed a total of 2,161 metres and that Derwent Bridge, our destination today is 771 metres above sea level.

We had discussed meeting at Queenstown but Steve, Gill & I arrived a little later than anticipated and so I knew that Walter had gone on because there had been showers along the way and so his stop would have been a short one. Steve & Gill needed fuel so I told them I would keep going.

I caught up with him about 15kms past Queenstown – what a devastated bare landscape to travel through but in a sense the starkness of the natural rocky outcrops and dramatic rock cliffs create a lunar and surreal atmosphere. Walter commented later that it reminded him of parts of the mountainous Norwegian landscape.

Walter said he had a tough day of riding – rain, sunshine, rain, sunshine, sleet and when I looked at my temperature gauge 2 degrees but he said it was ever so rewarding and probably his second favourite ride ever, after The Kimberleys.

A highlight was passing King William Mountain 1429 mtrs high and snow covered.

I met Steve & Gill at Nelson Falls 5kms after catching up with Walter. Gill & I did the short 20 minute walk to the falls – beautiful.

I headed on up the road straight afterwards to see how Walter was going as the rain was coming down fairly hard at this stage and the temperature was dropping. He was cold but said he was enjoying the climbs.

Checked into the Derwent Bridge Wilderness Hotel – it was very good. After a bit of recovery time we set off to see The Wall – an art exhibition of a long wall of carved huon pine figures depicting the history of this part of the Central Highlands – extraordinary intricate detail in each of the large timber carvings. The work is not finished and that in fact makes it all the more interesting as the hand sketches are there to see and many of the figures on the wall are not quite finished. The fine detail is present in around 80% of a piece and for the viewer the process of the art in its developing stages is on show and this in itself is quite fascinating. Well worth visiting. No photography is allowed however.

Next, a visit to Lake St Clair – bitterly cold as we walked down to the viewing platform to see the lake and later Walter & I walked to the jetty. Walter said he had fond memories of the last time he was here, 5 years ago when he did the Overland Track with Henry & Kees, our friends from The Netherlands.

Great dinner at The Derwent Bridge Wilderness Hotel – feels like being in a ski lodge – big open fires, hearty meals and great conversation.

Walter heading off cold & rainy weather passing our favourite eating place Molly's

Just out of Queenstown

This is a sunny bit

Passing another cyclist in this remote part of Tasmania

View from my windscreen

Quite striking landscape views

Saying hello to me at Nelson Falls before heading on

Nelson Falls

Very wet - very steep

The Central Highlands - a photo Walter took whilst on the road today - snow

Lake St Clair 

The Wall - intricate & detailed timber carvings depicting the history of the Central Highlands

DAY 14 - 4 MARCH 2015 -STRAHAN WEST COAST WILDERNESS RAILWAY

Day 14 – 4^th March 2015 Strahan – West Coast Wilderness Railway

Today we had booked the West Coast Wilderness Railway trip, which was not until 2pm so we had some free time.

I was keen to go out for breakfast and thought we would walk across the road to Molly’s Café and store. I discovered it yesterday afternoon – I had had a bit of a senior moment because I had left my hairbrush on the window ledge in the bathroom at our cabin in Roseberry so I thought I’d try my luck at Molly’s – I was really happy to see a box with flat and round hairbrushes and thought that maybe others before me may have done the same. I explained to the lady behind the counter what had happened and said I hadn’t been able to brush my hair all day. She told me that her hair had taken all day to look like it did now too! We both laughed.

Anyway Molly’s is definitely a nice friendly place which makes great coffee and we ordered omlettes ($7 each) and we could choose the fillings ourselves  - so bacon, cheese, tomato & mushrooms and it came served with some slices of  tomato & multigrain toast and they're very good. I spoke to Sophie (it’s a family business and she is one of Peter, the owner’s daughters) about re-charging my mobile Telstra Wifi device because they had the store had a Telstra flag displayed. No problems at all – her dad said the easiest way was for him to transfer $30 credit to my number – He said I’m always doing that for my daughters so I just gave him $30 cash and it was organized.

Steve & Gill arrived at our cabin at 9.30am as arranged because we wanted to do the Howarts Falls walk which began just pass the Strahan township  but the weather was pretty awful – gusty winds & driving rain so instead we walked to the township and had a look at the shops –lots of beautiful timber crafted goods and then coffee.

After a quick sandwich in our cabin we drive up to the look-out and then on to Regatta Point where the heritage 119 year old heritage steam train would take us through the remote wild landscape half way to Queenstown.

After a big delay we were told that there were serious issues with the steam engine and the old red diesel engine would be pulling the carriages today.

We were told this railway took 2 and a half years to build with construction commencing in 1894. This was indeed an engineering feat as it winds its way through seemingly impenetrable terrain – sheer tall rugged rocks faces have been tunnelled all by hand tools to create an opening for the railway line to run through. The track starts by skirting the edges of Macquarie Bay and then follows King River and then snakes inland. As you proceed up river the water begins to change to a bright orange – pollution from the mining of iron ore at Queenstown which seems irreversible. The guide explained that the mining occurred in the 1920s during the depression and it kept the economy alive although now to see the scars of the mining on this river is quite shocking.

The railway was officially closed on 10/8/1963 but the community fought for 39 years to have it rebuilt and reopened which finally happened in 2002. The guide spoke of the toughness of the West Coasters to continue the fight to regain their railway. Their motto is ‘ we find a way, or we make a way’ - strong words from a determined community.

We didn’t arrive back at Regatta Point until around 6.30pm. We decided a casual meal of fish & chips would be a good idea and it was – so we returned to Molly’s and had snapper, chips & salad – fresh & tasty.

View over Regatta Point from Strahan Look-out

The steam engine which couldn't be started 

Waiting and waiting in the train for word about the steam engine

This was how we thought we would be travelling

King River view

Some interesting history about the railway

Remnants of part of one of the old bridges

View from the carriage

Interesting forest vegetation

One of the old bridges

DAY 13 - 3/3/2015 STRAHAN - GORDON RIVER CRUISE

Day 13 – 3/3/15 – Strahan – Gordon River Cruise

Walter & I left Roseberry early to drive to Strahan. Walter had originally wanted to cycle the scenic downhill 71 kms from Roseberry to Strahan and that is why we had chosen the 9am Gordon River Cruise. BUT when we looked at the time it gets light here, it is after 6.30am and the ride would be close to 3 hours so time wise a bit too close because Walter would need, of course to shower and change.

So he was a bit disappointed but realistic about the time frame. We had a relaxing drive – it was rainy, very cloudy but as always I was optimistic that the weather would lift and it would be fine.

We enjoyed the drive and I particularly enjoyed the solid white low bands of cloud, which hovered over the forested landscape.

The weather lifted and we boarded ‘The Eagle’ launched in 2007 and constructed at a cost of 5.2 million dollars we travelled up the serene Macquarie Harbour. We were told that the vessel travels at a comfortable speed of 50 kilometres per hour. ‘The Eagle” we were told had towed a total of 145 water skiers in 2010 to achieve a world record which the captain proudly announced was a good news story.

We proceeded up Macquarie Harbour and into the shallow Kelly Channel and were told to look to our right to see Macquarie Heads, the longest beach in Tasmania at 140kms long.

Hells Gates was a narrow opening and we travelled through it to enter the open rugged waters of the Roaring Forties.

We were informed that a 3 kms long 7 metre high wall built by hand transforming Macquarie Harbour into a working harbour

On returning back towards the mouth of the Gordon River we visited the Atlantic Salmon & Ocean Trout Sea farms, which are successful environments for the fish due to the fresh water element namely the Gordon River, which feeds into the Macquarie Harbour. We viewed the large pens where the fish are matured in and witnessed the feeding of fish pellets by hose into the screened off pens. We were told 18,000 fish are housed per pen, which apparently is an acceptable amount per pen to make for a sustainable and happy living environment for the maturing fish.

Then it was on to visit Sarah Island infamous for being one of the cruelest convict settlements in the whole of Australia. Apparently re-offenders and serious offenders were sent here and we were told the flogging rate was 90% and the harsh climate and hard labour in cutting down the huon pine trees made the convicts’ lives hell on earth. We listened to the informative commentary given during the walking tour and saw the brick remains of some of the buildings. It is the tour guide pointed out, a part of history that as Australians we should be ashamed of and hopefully we have learnt lessons from. But this guide added maybe we haven’t when we look at some of the history now being made.

The Gordon River itself is grand – very grand and wide and flanked on both banks by lush tall vegetation and massive green-forested hills. We stopped and enjoyed the opportunity of a walk through the lush mossy forest and enjoyed seeing the new huon pine trees being to grow.

Lunch was a buffet of yes – local delicious smoked salmon – mountains of it and great tasty salads and French bread & cheeses.

We enjoyed this day so much – such a relaxing and informative trip. The Eagle is a wonderful comfortable boat with lots of viewing decks on a number of levels and the allocated seats we were assigned to in the lounge provided excellent viewing as well.

On returning we checked into our cabin and drove over to Steve & Gill’s RV site to say hi and pick up Walter’s bike, which they had kindly transported, to Strahan for us.

Steve & Gill cooked tonight in our cabin – a lovely chicken & vegetable risotto. Afterwards we had a lovely big walk to the Strahan township. It doesn’t get dark until just after 8pm so the evenings are nice and leisurely and long.

Rainforest walk at Gordon River stop

Devil's Gates 

Sea farming of Ocean Trout - feeding with sprayed fish pellets

View to Sarah Island Jetty

The ruins of the Penitentuary on Sarah Island

Enjoying the Gordon River

The majestic Gordon River

Rainforest walk at Gordon River stop

Some intrepid travellers preparing for a 3 day self sufficient kayak trip up The Gordon River

Views up The Gordon River